Since I worked so hard yesterday drafting the pattern and cutting out the pieces, I decided to sew the muslin up today. It was alot of fun and went together really easily (though I found one spot in my drafted pattern that I need to change). I had a piece of paper for taking notes on and AMAZINGLY I only took 3 notes the whole day! That’s amazing and great!
Now, how I did it 🙂 . I really wanted something like this as I was making the dress, so I hope someone else can use this one day 🙂 .
1. All the pieces are cut out, so first I sewed the front piece with the front side piece (the one I drafted).
These pieces went together PERFECTLY, I’m so pleased.
2. Now attach the direct side piece.
This direct side piece is actually shorter then my drafted side front piece, so I need to shorten the side front piece to line up. But that shouldn’t be too hard 🙂 .
3. Now it’s time for the back of the dress. First I sewed up the back seam as far as the opening, then I attached all the little loops for threading the lace through and attached the panel that goes in the back. I spaced the loops 2″ apart all the way down the back. From the pictures of Susan in her dress, it looks like she laces her dress down the back, with the laces in a little bow at the bottom.
Right now the panel is only connected on one side. My mom has suggested that I attach the panel to both sides, making the panel big enough that the hips/bust can slide through. It’s an option and I might try it 🙂 .
4. Attach the side back to the back. This is very simple and went just perfectly 🙂 .
5. Sew the shoulders and side seams! Now you should have a dress that looks almost like what you want. I wouldn’t recommend fitting much here, because you need the sleeves to get a real good fit and make everything work right. But it is great fun to put it on and swirl the skirt 🙂 .
6. Face the neck and back. The dress calls for a facing around the neck to achieve that smooth, finished look and to get the v without trouble. I also decided to face the back down the left side of the loops, so that they would stay in their place and not jump around the back of the dress.
I forgot about cutting facings and such, so they ended up being cut strange and all, but it works for a muslin 🙂 .
6. Now you get to do the sleeves! With Susan’s sleeves, they have this point at the knuckle under the pinkie, so the first thing to do is line the sleeve points. I made my lining kinda short and after trying to put the outfit on, I think it would be wisest to bag or fully line the sleeve. Oh, and before you line the sleeve, you have to make the slashes in the sleeve. I didn’t do that on this muslin, but I’ll probably do it on the next one, just for the practice, because I want to know what i’m doing before I work with the expensive fabric 🙂 .
8. NOW you get to sew the sleeve all the way up 🙂 . I sewed the sleeve and the lining side seams at the same time, creating a bag lining, though the lining is a little short as I mentioned earlier. But it looks really good, REALLY GOOD.
Doesn’t that sleeve look so cool!
9. Now sew the sleeve to the dress. I had cut my sleeve too big, so I had trouble making it fit smoothly into the arm hole. Depending on how the dress fits, I might make the sleeve smaller or make the arm hole bigger. One of those two 🙂
10. Finally sew the gussets in the arms. This is unique to McCalls 4490 and it was tricky! I decided I don’t really like gussets 😛 . But I got them in and that was the last step for this dress!
My sister posing with the completed muslin on
Now the muslin is ready to send off to Jenni so she can try it on and make it fit!
Tags: construction tips, green archery dress, sewing, Susan